Allow goats to graze among chestnut trees, turn their milk into cheese, and age that cheese on chestnut planks. What you end up with is Tomme de la Chataigneraie. As legendary French affienuers Fromages Mons ages this cheese, the rind turns light grey and develops yellow blooms, a visual likeness of lichen. It should be no surprise that the aromas are those of woods and foraged nuts. And while the rind holds flavors of stony minerality, the paste is exquisitely balanced: a bit sweet and a bit yogurty, the kind of goat cheese that even goat cheese skeptics often proclaim a fondness for.